Rainforest ridges above the Caribbean coast of Dominica

The Journal · Nº 09° 15′ N

Stories from the Nature Island

Field notes, culture, food and adventure — dispatches from the rivers, ridges and villages of Dominica.

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Boiling Lake at DawnField Notes

Boiling Lake at Dawn

The trail begins in rainforest shadow and ends on the rim of a flooded fumarole that never stops boiling. What the world's second-largest hot lake teaches you about walking slowly.

Valley of DesolationMarch 20268 min read
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Mas Domnik: Inside the Real MasCulture

Mas Domnik: Inside the Real Mas

Behind the feathers and the drums, Carnival in Dominica is a living archive of resistance, satire and street theatre.

RoseauFebruary 20266 min read
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Where the Whales Live Year-RoundNature

Where the Whales Live Year-Round

Dominica is one of the only places on Earth where sperm whale families stay resident all year. What that means for respectful encounters.

West CoastJanuary 20265 min read
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A Morning at the Roseau MarketFood

A Morning at the Roseau Market

Dasheen, bay oil, mountain chicken stories and the best callaloo on the island — a walk through the old market with the vendors who run it.

Old Market, RoseauJanuary 20264 min read
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The Waitukubuli Trail, Segment by SegmentAdventure

The Waitukubuli Trail, Segment by Segment

115 miles from Scotts Head to the Cabrits. A practical guide to the Caribbean's longest hiking trail, written from the mud up.

Scotts Head to CabritsDecember 20257 min read
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Voices of the Kalinago TerritoryHeritage

Voices of the Kalinago Territory

Canoe building, cassava bread and the oldest surviving Indigenous community in the Caribbean — in their own words.

Kalinago TerritoryDecember 20256 min read
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The Island's Natural Hot SpringsWellness

The Island's Natural Hot Springs

From Wotten Waven to Screw's Spa: where volcanic heat meets cold river water, and why locals have soaked here for generations.

Wotten WavenNovember 20255 min read
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